Monday, November 20, 2006

Stingrays Frisbee Team Adventures

I do not want to drink this, I protest. Look at it. Would you want to drink the snake wine? There are snakes and small animals floating in that liquid. Like hairless flying squirrels. It got poured. I drank it. We won the tournament. Did I mention it was the only game I missed all year!? The winning cheer, "Franny, Franny, where the fuck is Franny!!?" Nina drank it and wanted more. Typical Nina.



Sunday, November 05, 2006

The Leaning Tower of Tian Ma Shan

Chinese word of the day: shan means mountain. I went with my frisbee friend Kevin. He is my badminton teacher, adventure side kick, and hot pot partner. He and I taxi'd 30 km southwest of home to the "mountain" of Tian Ma to see the leaning tower. Our taxi chauffeur decided to cruise around town a bit and wait for us while we scaled cliffs up to the tower. Actually, we hiked 30 something concrete steps up the hillside, crossed the threshold, and into the sunshine we strolled.

Hello, people, it is November and I am wearing flip flops. Love this place. Anway, the Huzhu pagoda was built in 1097 but only started leaning 200 years ago. It officially beats Pisa's tower by 1.5 degrees. It's 20 meters high and situated in a great park overlooking a whole bunch of smoggy fields and villages. Kevin and I ate bananas, melon, and sour patch kids - in that order- (thanks, mom for the package!) in the Leaning Tower park.
What's the deal with the horse? The mountain has two humps to it and from far away takes the form of a horse's back with the pagoda the ear, maybe!? I don't know. I just liked the horse with the realish fur coat. Ok, and I enjoy any chance I get to flex my muscles and wave at the camera.
Truth be told I tried to find this park during my October break and couldnt get ANY taxi driver to understand what the tower was, where Tian Ma was, or what the hell I was looking for. Kevin is my Chinese culture tutor and official translator guide. He is from Beijing and didn't even know about this place. So, my quest missions and his language skills makes us a compatible adventure team. Hung hao! (very good!)

Friday, November 03, 2006

Hong Kong as a Brief Tourist



People have said, "When you go to Hong Kong, you will not want to leave." I now know this to be a true statement. Hong Kong is amazing. I am thrilled to live in Shanghai, but let's do a comparison:
#1. In HK the taxi drivers tell you, in English, to put on your seatbelt. In Shanghai they take your life in their hands, weaving blindly through clouds of smoke spit by trucks.
#2 In HK there are shoe stores for women, ie a Nine West with size 10s in stock! In Shanghai there is a store, called Big Foot Big Woman (who wants to shop there!?) serving the expat community because mainland Chinese stores only sell up to size 8. Oh yeah, and Big Foot Big Woman has recently gone out of business (I am actually lamenting this as tragedy).
#3. In HK there are green spaces, mountains, and BLUE water. Two main parts of the city, Kowloon and Hong Kong, across the bay from each other, are flanked by mountains, water, and trees! A fabulously friendly and easy to maneuver ferry treks you back and forth between the two. On the other hand, Shanghai is mostly concrete. The Chinese characters for "Shang Hai" mean above the water and yet the only water I see is brown, black and murky. There is nothing green in Shanghai here except the fields at school and the lawns at the Shanghai Racquet Club and Apartments, whose grass is treated by more chemicals than a NYC druggie. (But I am grateful to live here and work here- do not misinterpret this comment!)
#4. In HK someone can get mugged at 1 am (like my ultimate frisbee teammate, Lou) and get their passport and bank cards recovered within the half hour. In Shanghai, someone can get hit by a bus, lay flailing - or dead- in the road and the onlookers swarm the street, blocking traffic flow. Miles away the congested traffic patterns laugh at the police or rescue vehicle desire to arrive at the scene, let alone arrive on time to actually do something.
#5 In HK mountains rise into the sky. In Shanghai, dust, dirt, pollution, smoke, and smog leap into the sky.
#6 In HK everybody speaks ENGLISH! (Once a British colony... always a British colony!) In Shanghai, people have NO idea what you are saying, ever, even if you attempt Chinese. Your tone is never correct- Zhu-di , Zhu-dee, Ju-dee... whatever, they don't understand! (Again, don't get me wrong- I do not expect the people in ANY country to understand my language, just an observation.)
HOWEVER, in Shanghai, when they say something is golden, they mean it. The Jin Mao tower , literally means Golden Prosperity building, is the tallest building in China, the fourth tallest building in the world, and home of the world's highest hotel- floors 53-87 host the Grand Hyatt (http://shanghai.grand.hyatt.com/hyatt/hotels/index.jsp). In HK, I stayed in the Chang King Mansions that were anything but mansions. They were also advertised as the Golden Guest House. One look at the photo tells me that I would rather stay in the the Jin Mao than the Golden Guest House, any day! Yeehaw Shanghai!

Thursday, November 02, 2006

Jin Qiao Country Club plays Hong Kong






One of the best things about ultimate frisbee is something called "spirit of the game." No referees, honest fun, competetive energy, and a comraderie that I have never witnessed in any other sport. Playing in skirts, odd hats, and festive dress is common for male and female players. Random costumes, hats, and theme attire is encouraged, especially in tournaments. The Shanghai Ultimate Frisbee team decided to arrive at the Hong Kong tournament in uniform and in character. We were Jin Qiao Country Club members. We dressed the part- khakis and pink polos, white tennis skirts, glasses of gin and tonic on the fields, retro white headbands, pearl necklaces, noses in the air, golf claps, cheers of "excellent throw, Joseph" and "beautiful run, William", aviator glasses, and a snobbery typical of members of an elite country club. We did it up. Members only. Nothing but class.

Three games on Saturday- Jin Qiao members trounced them all. Three games on Sunday. We struggled only in the final, even then only losing 15-12 to the Singapore team that will go to Worlds in two weeks. A fabulously respectable showing. We attended the Saturday night dinner and party as Jin Qiao members, complete with headbands, polos, alligator logos, hidden flasks, tennis dresses, sweaters over the shoulder, and an unmistakable attitude that set us apart. Saturday night dinner locale was appropraite for the members- club Red in the world's fourth largest building- the Hong Kong International Finance Center (IFC). We were on an outdoor patio on the 5th floor. Spectacular view of the Hong Kong mountains, harbor, and skyline, all majestically lit up. Check out the website http://www.ifc.com.hk/english/

The Afternoon Commute


The afternoon commute home follows the same path but I ride closer to Zhudi town's more intriguing options. (note: I live in Shanghai, in the Minhang district, in Zhudi town). Riding home I sometimes stop at the fashionable tailor. He and his wife sew, copy, take in, and produce just about any clothing you can imagine. Usually for a ridiculously low price like $2 to take in a pair of pants. Before going to the Hong Kong ultimate frisbee tournament this weekend I had a long sleeved men's large polo shirt that I needed fitted. I was in a pinch. I brought the shirt at 9am and had it finished by 4pm. Not bad. Oh, and I gave them a loaf of banana bread. The fashionable tailors: like banana bread, work fast, and must know someone who speaks English, because their sign is not only attractive but also grammatically correct- a rarity in China.
Next to the tailor is a furniture shop that appears to sell few items. Men congregate and challenge each other to mahjong and a card game that appears dangerously like "go fish". I am not sure about that, though. In front of the store is China's typical delivery vehicle- the three wheeler. This is the "poor man's bike". The large plants and trees in my apartment were delivered by a man riding this type of bike. These bikes are neither comfortable nor particularly efficient. I think many people in China live lives typified by this bike- far from modern, requiring much manual labor, and beaten by time and dirt.
Last but not least on the ride home is the Happen Bar. Location of our middle school TGIF parties. Run by an English speaking Chinese man named Calvin. Calvin also owns the DVD store on the ground level. I've stopped asking myself if this is supposed to be the "Happening Bar" or the "Place Where Things Happen Bar". It is the Happen Bar, but a misnomer, it is not. Faculty bands perform while locals and teachers play darts here. Cheap beer happens here. Thus, the Happen Bar.

The Morning Commute

7:25. The commute to school starts with me on my bike riding tearfully away from Tito, who is usually perched on the patio railing. Adios! (He understands Spanish). He gets to stay outside until 8:30 when the ayi comes, cleans up, feeds Tito, and closes windows and doors. I ride down the tree-lined street on my bike (brand- Giant, model- Ghengis Khan, features- big front basket!) towards school. At the very dangerous intersection I cross over into the bike lane next to the Chinese restaurant on the corner. Lights mean almost nothing in China. Green means go, orange means go, and so does red most of the time. There are many vehicles to beware of: buses, bikes, motorbikes, motorscooters, electric bikes, tricycle workmen's bikes, taxis, and trucks. People don't usually pull over for emergency vehicles or police cars.... Also, beware of people absentmindedly standing in the biker's lane. Also take notice of vehicles traveling in the bike lane going the opposite direction of what is designated.
There are usually people on the large sidewalk selling clothes, vegetables, crabs, fruit, and other random items. I cross over a bridge (under which flows a very skanky flow of something resembling a stream). While crossing the bridge I get the first glimpse of the school inthe distance. Notice the man in the field with the sunflowers! China surprises me with it's pockets of beauty, like random sunflowers in an otherwise littered, empty field.
The school is a bit of a behemoth in the distance. Entering SAS involves dismounting your bike and showing your ID to the guards. They salute me. I don't know why. They take their job very seriously, which is excellent, considering some North Korean refugees tried to get inside the compound to get asylum. That is a story for another post. 7:31. Ni hao! and Good morning to all the guards. Let the school day commence.